Butterflies take over the runway: Zimmermann unveils its SS’27 collection in Paris
Experiments with lace, denim and appliqué
At Zimmermann’s show in Paris, butterflies quite literally took over the runway. Australian designer Nicky Zimmermann drew inspiration from the winged insect and transformed the motif into a variety of decorative elements — from lace appliqués to sculptural constructions on dresses, skirts and even handbags.
The show took place at the historic Le Carreau du Temple, where Zimmermann’s signature romantic aesthetic took a more experimental turn. Milky and powdery shades, delicate draping, ruffles, lace maxi and mini dresses, relaxed shirts, trousers, capes and scarves remained recognisable elements of the brand. This time, however, the designer placed greater emphasis on intricate textures and unconventional fabric treatments.
According to the designer, the collection proved technically more challenging than her previous work. The team experimented with new ways of creating movement in the fabric and combining different textures.
Butterflies became the defining motif of the season, although they were not always immediately apparent. In some looks, it took a closer look to spot tiny wings hidden among lace and decorative details.
For example, the collar of one blouse was covered in a cascade of lace butterflies, while on white jeans, appliqués ran down the side seams. Sheer ruffled dresses flowed all the way to the floor, ending in sculptural butterflies and flowers.
Another look resembled a piece of jewellery in its own right. A lace top with an open back was adorned with numerous layers of butterflies, each one shaped and sewn onto the fabric by hand.
The delicate palette of the collection was complemented by light-blue denim, along with ochre, chocolate brown and black.
The accessories were equally striking. Some handbags were completely covered in fabric from which realistic butterflies had been created. Their three-dimensional forms were so elaborate that the bags could easily have been considered standalone works of art.
The collection’s title — «Kaleidoscope» — was no coincidence. It refers both to the constant transformation of colours and shapes and to themes of fleeting moments, fragility, quiet strength and the ever-changing nature of the natural world. Alongside butterflies, the collection’s moodboard also featured 19th-century scientific illustrations by Harriet and Helena Scott, work by directors Gillian Armstrong and Kim Gyngell, as well as the art of Lara Merrett.
The show attracted a host of star guests in the front row, including Naomi Watts, Jessica Alba, Uma Thurman, Sarah Snook and Karen Elson.
Photo: 5elevenmag.com
