Radiant looks and a symbolic handover of the keys: Anthony Vaccarello unveils Saint Laurent’s new collection
And hints at a farewell to the House
Another chapter in the history of Saint Laurent has come to an end in Paris — at least if Anthony Vaccarello’s symbols are anything to go by. The designer presented his new collection exactly ten years after making his debut as the French house’s creative director. And his final gesture after the show only fueled speculation about a possible departure from the brand.
That evening, Saint Laurent was quite literally bathed in gold. It appeared almost everywhere — in the fabrics, textures, outerwear, tailoring, accessories and even the set design. A golden Eiffel Tower illuminated the space above the runway, while enormous chandeliers appeared to float in midair.
Vaccarello opened the show with a silhouette that has long been one of his signature codes: a slim skirt paired with a voluminous top. This time, the looks were complemented by delicate silk trains that moved with the models, adding a theatrical quality to the silhouettes.
Then gold completely took over the runway. Metallic trench coats and jackets resembled crumpled foil, while sharp skirts and Bermuda shorts were paired with brocade, jacquard, embroidery and fringe.
Even pieces and accessories that would normally remain secondary details of a look were rendered in gold — including crop tops, pointed-toe pumps and oversized earrings with the appearance of cast metal.
Color also found its place in the collection. Lightweight chiffon scarves and turbans brought movement to the looks and recalled Saint Laurent’s love of bold yet dramatic accents.
The entire collection seemed to revolve around the idea of a golden age. This felt particularly symbolic given that Yves Saint Laurent himself frequently turned to gold throughout his work.
Yet the finale abruptly shifted the mood. After the golden spectacle, total-black looks emerged on the runway. Enormous, multilayered chiffon dresses almost enveloped the models, while velvet suits added depth and drama to the collection.
With these black looks, Vaccarello seemed to draw a line under the story he had been telling throughout the show.
After the final walk by the models and designers, Vaccarello came out for his bow. But it was precisely then that a gesture took place that prompted the fashion industry to speculate about a possible farewell.
Vaccarello symbolically handed the keys to the House to his son.
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The designer has yet to make any official statement about his departure. For now, therefore, any suggestion that his time at Saint Laurent is coming to an end remains speculation.
Photo: Instagram @ysl_obsessed
