Hadid on the runway and unusual silhouettes: what made Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut collection for Balenciaga stand out
A reinterpretation of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s vision
One of the most highly anticipated fashion shows of the season took place in Paris as Pierpaolo Piccioli unveiled his first haute couture collection for Balenciaga. The designer, who spent many years at Valentino, presented his own interpretation of the legendary fashion house, combining architectural forms, theatricality and wearability.
For his debut, Piccioli chose a rather unexpected setting. The show was staged outdoors in the lush park of the Cité Universitaire campus. Through this collection, the designer sought to demonstrate that haute couture can exist beyond red carpets and feel more connected to everyday life.
The central theme of the collection was freedom of silhouette. Rather than drawing inspiration from Balenciaga’s recent collections, Piccioli turned to the archives of Cristóbal Balenciaga himself. The founder’s iconic trapeze silhouettes, intricate constructions and architectural volumes became the foundation of the new designs.
The runway featured both dramatic couture creations and pieces that could easily find a place in a contemporary wardrobe. Alongside oversized skirts, bell-shaped dresses and sculptural capes were relaxed trousers, crisp white shirts, delicate strappy sundresses and minimalist summer dresses.
At the same time, the signature drama associated with Balenciaga remained very much present. Feathers became even more voluminous, collars reached greater heights, and some capes almost completely concealed the models’ faces.
Colour also played a significant role in the collection, with rich cherry red, canary yellow, emerald green and vibrant shades of fuchsia creating striking visual contrasts.
The show opened with model Anok Yai, while one of the most talked-about moments was Gigi Hadid’s appearance in pleated trousers and a black top featuring a giant rose-shaped collar.
A host of celebrities attended to support the debut of Balenciaga’s new creative director. Among the guests were Anna Wintour, Lily Collins, Cynthia Erivo, Teyana Taylor, and Demi Moore, who arrived alongside her daughter Tallulah Willis.
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