Pregnant models and eerie looks: Matières Fécales stages a provocative show in Paris
A blend of fashion, performance and horror
The first day of Paris Fashion Week came to a close with one of the season’s most unconventional shows. Matières Fécales presented its Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Place de la République — surrounding the monumental statue of Marianne. Pregnant models, Gothic looks and figures with an eerie, surreal aesthetic appeared on the runway, while the finale turned into a large-scale performance featuring models carrying life-size figures of billionaires on their shoulders.
The location was chosen deliberately: Place de la République is traditionally a gathering point in Paris for protests, public demonstrations and major celebrations. The designers therefore used the space as an extension of their statement about society, inequality, migration and diversity.
The collection was titled «The Ninety Nine Percent» — «99 Percent». Ninety-nine models took part in the show, while the concept continued the designers’ criticism of the extreme concentration of wealth and power in the hands of the richest one percent.
The final chapter of the show, «Gods», proved to be the most spectacular. Two models in radically different looks — one in an immaculate white suit, the other in a gold-toned gown with a long train — literally carried realistic figures depicting billionaires on their shoulders, transforming the runway into a political performance.
Matières Fécales has long been known for its radical shows, in which fashion blurs the boundaries between performance, theatre and horror.
The runway initially featured voluminous dresses and monochrome ensembles before the show shifted into a punk episode: models walked out in ripped dresses, bomber jackets, thigh-high boots, bleached jeans and other provocative looks.
Diversity was another central focus of the show. Pregnant women were among the models, while the overall casting represented a wide range of appearances and body types. In this way, the designers continued their idea of the «99 percent» — the vast majority of people whose stories often remain overlooked by the world of high fashion.
For the final section, Matières Fécales returned to the aesthetic that first brought the label international recognition. Gothic elements met a fantastical, almost dreamlike atmosphere.
To the music of Nina Simone, true divas walked the runway wearing hats with exaggerated silhouettes inspired by the cultures of West Africa.
The designers played with contrasts: pristine white gave way to vivid colors, lace was paired with embroidery, and feathers became one of the collection’s key decorative elements.
Photo: harpersbazaar.fr
