Between seduction and danger: Tom Ford unveils new collection in Paris
From revealing silhouettes to 1990s aesthetics
In Paris, Tom Ford presented its new collection as part of Fashion Week, offering a more restrained yet equally provocative take on the house’s signature aesthetic of unapologetic sensuality.
Rather than relying on obvious seduction, Haider Ackermann, the house’s designer, focused on bare skin, plunging necklines, sheer fabrics, leather and dramatic silhouettes, leaving plenty of room for the imagination. The runway brought together Tom Ford’s signature sensuality, Ackermann’s distinctive sense of decadence and an underlying sense of danger that became one of the defining moods of the show.
In his notes accompanying the collection, the designer explained that he wanted to move beyond Tom Ford’s familiar image of the seductive woman. His aim was to «move closer to danger» and explore another side of nudity.
«There is something deeply sexual about a body that reveals itself but does not offer itself», Ackermann said.
That idea became one of the central themes of the show. The presentation took place in a dark, mirrored space, where models walked in looks that balanced on the line between revealing and refined.
The runway featured plunging swimsuits, silk and leather robes, jackets worn against bare skin, sheer skirts, structured bustiers, tops made from neckties and provocative bodysuits. One of the most striking looks featured a bodysuit completely covered in rhinestones and finished with intricate draping.
The swimsuits, in particular, evoked the aesthetic of Helmut Newton’s photography from the 1990s — with the characteristic combination of strength, eroticism and cinematic drama found throughout his work.
Ackermann also retained one of his favorite signatures — a rich, saturated color palette. Classic black and white were joined by deep shades of red, green and blue, along with olive and pale blue. Rich reds stood out in particular, recalling the shades of Tom Ford lipsticks.
Another highlight was a series of long maxi skirts with trains, as well as red dresses featuring extreme cutouts, adding an extra layer of theatricality to the collection.
The menswear continued the same interplay between nudity and classic tailoring. Mini shorts were paired with sweaters, while two-piece suits either left the torso exposed or featured a tailored jacket worn with a mesh tank top.
Among the star guests at the show were Shakira, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Michael Jackson’s daughter Paris Jackson, Kate Moss, Cara Delevingne and Cynthia Erivo.
Photo: Instagram @upwithoscar_, @f_ed, @maxmirmir
