Angels and gothic motifs: McQueen reveals the dark side of fashion
The brand’s first London show in more than 20 years
McQueen has returned to London Fashion Week, presenting a new collection in the city for the first time in more than two decades. The show took place in the underground vaults of the 17th-century Lincoln’s Inn chapel, where Creative Director Seán McGirr transformed the runway into the setting for a dark, theatrical tale.
The designer combined Gothic aesthetics with the atmosphere of underground rave culture. One of his key sources of inspiration was Piero della Francesca’s painting «The Baptism of Christ».
In the new collection, the designer plays with contrasts. Sheer dresses with long, voluminous trains are paired with metallic jackets decorated with floral motifs, while silk shirts are styled with geometrically cut jackets.
The color palette ranges from rich burgundy and black to platinum and white.
The details are equally striking. Models walked the runway with unusual sculptural hairstyles reminiscent of horns, as well as short, silvery haircuts. Oversized earrings evoked everything from leaves to drops of blood.
The idea of architectural construction also plays an important role in the collection, expressed through sculptural silhouettes, sharp-shouldered jackets with defined waists, corsets and oversized structures around the hips. The designer deliberately contrasted the precision of tailoring with satin, lace and sheer fabrics.
Metallic embroidery, crystals and three-dimensional floral appliqués evoke stone carving. As a result, the dresses and jackets appear almost sculptural.
Full skirts, feathers and intricate draping added even more drama and Gothic intensity to the looks.
Photo: Instagram @alexandermcqueen
