Balenciaga, Howard Hughes and «Carrie»: the story behind the costumes for the third «Dune» film
Jacqueline West reveals her sources of inspiration
Costume designer Jacqueline West, who has worked on all three instalments of Denis Villeneuve’s «Dune» trilogy, has shared insights into the creation of the costumes for the final film in the trilogy. In an interview with Vogue France, she revealed some unexpected sources of inspiration – from the designs of Cristóbal Balenciaga and the medieval papacy to American billionaire Howard Hughes and the 1976 horror film «Carrie».
This time, the costumes were intended to reflect the characters’ personal transformations, as the events of the film take place approximately 20 years after the second instalment.
«The script was much more emotional and entirely focused on the characters», West explained.
Her references included paintings by Giotto, the religious art of the early papacy, the traditional dress of the Etruscans and the peoples of North Africa, as well as the work of Cristóbal Balenciaga. West noted that she had moved away from the familiar «medieval modernism» aesthetic in favour of a Renaissance-inspired approach.
This is particularly evident in the look of Paul Atreides, played by Timothée Chalamet. Having evolved from a young messiah into an emperor, he is now haunted by guilt over his own reign. To convey his isolation, West drew inspiration from the life of Howard Hughes, who spent years living in seclusion in a Las Vegas hotel suite. She translated this mood into heavy fabrics, leather and embroidery.
For Chani, played by Zendaya, the costume designer took a somewhat different approach.
«She is the moral compass of the story. She has managed to retain her clarity of thought, just as she has stayed true to her wardrobe», West noted.
Even as she becomes a leader, a warrior and a mother, Chani remains faithful to the traditional Fremen attire – a practical suit designed for life in the desert. At the same time, the design team reworked its construction, creating a more fitted and streamlined silhouette. The costumes feature moulded acrylic elements that fit closely against the body.
Particular attention was also paid to the wardrobe of Princess Irulan, played by Florence Pugh. Her looks are predominantly rendered in shades of blue and draw inspiration from the film «Lady Sings the Blues». One of the most striking details is a cape described in the original novel as being made from blue whale fur. After a lengthy search for the right material, the team eventually found a fabric in Italy with an icy hue that resembled fur.
For Alia Atreides, played by Anya Taylor-Joy, an unexpected reference was the 1976 film «Carrie», starring Sissy Spacek. When the costume designer showed the actress a sketch depicting her covered in blood, Taylor-Joy herself immediately thought of the cult horror film.
«“Carrie” was a natural reference. I kept adding more and more blood all over Anya Taylor-Joy’s body!», West recalled.
Jacqueline also discussed the costumes for Scytale, played by Robert Pattinson, a character capable of changing his appearance. In creating his looks, West drew on the art of the early papacy, particularly the period when the papal court moved from Rome to Avignon. She wanted to give the character an unsettling and menacing presence.
Jason Momoa also returns as Hayt. His character is a genetically recreated version of Duncan Idaho, so the team created an elaborate, luxurious wardrobe for him. According to West, he almost becomes a gift to Paul.
The film is set to hit cinemas on 17 December 2026.
Photo: Instagram @duneinfo, @celuloidedigital
