Arrogant Chic: Haider Ackermann unveils his debut SS’26 collection for Tom Ford
Patent Leather and Asymmetrical Cutouts
Just days after Milan Fashion Week came to a close, all eyes turned to another fashion capital – Paris, where Haider Ackermann presented his first Spring/Summer collection for Tom Ford.
The show unfolded in an intimate setting: only 150 guests gathered at the Pavillon Vendôme, discreetly tucked between two iconic Parisian landmarks – the Hôtel Costes and the Ritz.
From the very first moment, an air of exclusivity pervaded the room. Models strode onto the runway with their heads held high, as if to underscore the untouchable nature of their looks. For Ackermann, there is no room for «understated luxury» – his aesthetic thrives on a bold fusion of glamour and refined sharpness.
The show opened with three striking women in coat-dresses made of semi-transparent lizard skin with a lustrous lacquered finish.
What followed were weighty, masculine-cut suits paired with miniature bras, and impeccably tailored suede biker jackets.
Hairstyles were no less expressive: women walked with graphic bob cuts reminiscent of the late 1950s, while men appeared with sleek, slicked-back hair, evoking the cinematic heroes of that era.
Eveningwear took a daring turn with flowing chiffon gowns accentuated by revealing cutouts.
«My work is about strength and fragility, about the desire to be seen and to step beyond boundaries. This show reflects what goes on in my head», Haider explained amidst a crowd of congratulating guests.
The grand finale belonged to the legendary Erin O’Connor and Scott Barnhill, who dominated the runway in matching cobalt-blue suits. Their strides were underscored by a remix of David Bowie’s iconic track Heroes – the perfect ending to the night.
Photo: Vogue Runway
