Another chapter in the history of Saint Laurent has come to an end in Paris — at least if Anthony Vaccarello’s symbols are anything to go by. The designer presented his new collection exactly ten years after making his debut as the French house’s creative director. And his final gesture after the show only fueled speculation about a possible departure from the brand.

That evening, Saint Laurent was quite literally bathed in gold. It appeared almost everywhere — in the fabrics, textures, outerwear, tailoring, accessories and even the set design. A golden Eiffel Tower illuminated the space above the runway, while enormous chandeliers appeared to float in midair.

Vaccarello opened the show with a silhouette that has long been one of his signature codes: a slim skirt paired with a voluminous top. This time, the looks were complemented by delicate silk trains that moved with the models, adding a theatrical quality to the silhouettes.

Then gold completely took over the runway. Metallic trench coats and jackets resembled crumpled foil, while sharp skirts and Bermuda shorts were paired with brocade, jacquard, embroidery and fringe.

Even pieces and accessories that would normally remain secondary details of a look were rendered in gold — including crop tops, pointed-toe pumps and oversized earrings with the appearance of cast metal.

Color also found its place in the collection. Lightweight chiffon scarves and turbans brought movement to the looks and recalled Saint Laurent’s love of bold yet dramatic accents.

The entire collection seemed to revolve around the idea of a golden age. This felt particularly symbolic given that Yves Saint Laurent himself frequently turned to gold throughout his work.

Yet the finale abruptly shifted the mood. After the golden spectacle, total-black looks emerged on the runway. Enormous, multilayered chiffon dresses almost enveloped the models, while velvet suits added depth and drama to the collection.

With these black looks, Vaccarello seemed to draw a line under the story he had been telling throughout the show.

After the final walk by the models and designers, Vaccarello came out for his bow. But it was precisely then that a gesture took place that prompted the fashion industry to speculate about a possible farewell.

Vaccarello symbolically handed the keys to the House to his son.

 

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The designer has yet to make any official statement about his departure. For now, therefore, any suggestion that his time at Saint Laurent is coming to an end remains speculation.

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The second day of Paris Fashion Week concluded with the show of Saint Laurent. In a turbulent fashion industry where creative directors change at dizzying speed and brands continuously reinterpret their codes, the House under the direction of Anthony Vaccarello remains faithful to its DNA. The new collection was no exception – once again, the designer turned to the brand’s heritage.

The season’s protagonist was the tuxedo. In 2026, the iconic design created by Yves Saint Laurent in 1966 marks its 60th anniversary. On this occasion, Vaccarello reaffirmed the House’s impeccable atelier expertise in tailoring – the art of the perfect cut. The runway featured looks built around flawlessly constructed jackets: elongated styles falling to mid-thigh in black and deep chocolate hues, defined by pronounced shoulders. They were paired with straight-leg trousers with sharp creases, forming a crisp, graphic silhouette.

Lingerie-inspired aesthetics received particular attention. Judging by this fashion month’s runways, pieces adorned with lace and rendered in sheer textures are set to retain their status as one of the defining trends at least through the end of 2026.

Fur, too, made an appearance. For the forthcoming cold season, Saint Laurent proposes replacing classic fur coats with voluminous designs featuring a lowered waistline. The deliberately disrupted proportions are to be emphasised with textile belts, heightening the contrast between softness and architectural precision.

The looks were completed with sleek, slicked-back hair and statement jewellery – earrings, brooches and necklaces that introduced a dramatic final accent.

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Saint Laurent’s creative director, Anthony Vaccarello, is opening the Sushi Park Paris restaurant in the basement of his Rive Droite boutique. This venue brings the legendary Japanese restaurant from Los Angeles to the French capital, making it a unique destination for Japanese cuisine.

The space features a minimalist decor that is both traditional and modern. The restaurant’s dim ambiance is softened by a few light fixtures that harmoniously echo Japanese forms and folds.

The culinary masterpieces at Saint Laurent Sushi Park Paris will be crafted by chef Peter Park. His world-famous Hollywood restaurant attracts a clientele list that rivals the Oscars. At Sushi Park, a strict no-photography policy is in place, adding even more exclusivity to this prestigious Japanese dining spot.

The haute cuisine experience will revolve around omakase – meaning «I leave it up to you» – where guests sit in front of the chef as he prepares the dishes before their eyes. The menu features fish sublimated according to the rules of Japanese culinary art: toro tuna, yellowtail, salmon, sea bream… All accompanied by green tea, cocktails, and refined desserts.

The restaurant opens today and will operate from Tuesday to Saturday at 8 Rue du 29 Juillet in Paris.

Photo: Instagram @ysl