One of the most highly anticipated fashion shows of the season took place in Paris as Pierpaolo Piccioli unveiled his first haute couture collection for Balenciaga. The designer, who spent many years at Valentino, presented his own interpretation of the legendary fashion house, combining architectural forms, theatricality and wearability.

For his debut, Piccioli chose a rather unexpected setting. The show was staged outdoors in the lush park of the Cité Universitaire campus. Through this collection, the designer sought to demonstrate that haute couture can exist beyond red carpets and feel more connected to everyday life.

The central theme of the collection was freedom of silhouette. Rather than drawing inspiration from Balenciaga’s recent collections, Piccioli turned to the archives of Cristóbal Balenciaga himself. The founder’s iconic trapeze silhouettes, intricate constructions and architectural volumes became the foundation of the new designs.

The runway featured both dramatic couture creations and pieces that could easily find a place in a contemporary wardrobe. Alongside oversized skirts, bell-shaped dresses and sculptural capes were relaxed trousers, crisp white shirts, delicate strappy sundresses and minimalist summer dresses.

At the same time, the signature drama associated with Balenciaga remained very much present. Feathers became even more voluminous, collars reached greater heights, and some capes almost completely concealed the models’ faces.

Colour also played a significant role in the collection, with rich cherry red, canary yellow, emerald green and vibrant shades of fuchsia creating striking visual contrasts.

The show opened with model Anok Yai, while one of the most talked-about moments was Gigi Hadid’s appearance in pleated trousers and a black top featuring a giant rose-shaped collar.

A host of celebrities attended to support the debut of Balenciaga’s new creative director. Among the guests were Anna Wintour, Lily Collins, Cynthia Erivo, Teyana Taylor, and Demi Moore, who arrived alongside her daughter Tallulah Willis.

 

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One of the most anticipated shows of Paris Fashion Week – Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut at the legendary house of Balenciaga – finally took place. The collection unfolded as a subtle dialogue between body and clothing, paying tribute to the legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga. Piccioli carefully reinterpreted the brand’s archival elements: balloon skirts, cocoon coats, «peacock-tail» dresses, and new versions of the iconic baby-doll dresses.

Balenciaga’s signature combinations of contrasting textures, unconventional silhouettes, and rich color palettes remained, while creativity and attention to tailoring highlighted the skill of the new creative director. Inspired by Le Corbusier’s architecture and Leonardo da Vinci’s «Vitruvian Man», Piccioli created looks in which the form and movement of the body become the central expressive element.

The key material of the collection was gazar, lending lightness and architectural structure, while special bodysuits allowed models to wear archival pieces without damaging them.

The show opened with light column dresses, tunics, and trousers that barely rustled as the models moved, followed by a note of rock-bohemian flair: leather biker cocoon jackets, ensembles of cropped leather tops and multi-layered skirts. Contrasting textures appeared in ivory dresses adorned with white feathers.

Particular attention was drawn to the new soft Bolero bag, comfortably worn under the arm. The show took place in a cross-shaped church on the grounds of a former monastery – a setting emphasizing the collection’s spirituality and architectural precision.

In the front row sat Meghan Markle. She appeared in a white suit with a white shawl draped over her shoulders, complemented by black pointed-toe heels and a clutch. This was the Duchess’s first visit to Paris Fashion Week, although she had previously attended similar events in New York – first in 2013, long before her wedding to Prince Harry.

 

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Piccioli’s debut for Balenciaga marked a refined and elegant start, demonstrating how the new creative director honors the brand’s heritage while bringing his own vision and contemporary elegance.

It is worth noting that Pierpaolo joined Balenciaga – a key house of the French luxury group Kering – after an 18-month hiatus following his departure from Valentino. He succeeded Demna Gvasalia, who moved to Gucci, Kering’s largest brand.

Photo: Vogue Runway