A play of contrasts in Bottega Veneta’s Fall-Winter collection
As part of Milan Fashion Week
The show by Bottega Veneta traditionally ranks among the most highly anticipated events of Milan Fashion Week. Last season, Louise Trotter assumed the role of Creative Director of the house. After a year spent living in Milan, the designer has developed a nuanced understanding of its rhythm, architecture and restrained aesthetic – all of which became the starting point for the new collection.
«I began with the idea of brutalism and sensuality, because it perfectly reflects my emotions: Milan is, in a way, a brutalist city with a hidden sensuality», Trotter told international journalists backstage at her second show for the house.
This time, her authorial voice feels particularly distinct: the collection is shaped more by personal expression than by retrospective references.
The interplay between brutalism and sensuality in the Fall-Winter 2026 season unfolds not only in individual looks but also in the overall dramaturgy of the show – from silhouettes and textures to styling choices.
What immediately stands out is the diversity of fur-like textures across the 81-look lineup. Fur appears not only in coats but also in skirts, dresses and even sweaters. In most cases, however, these are masterful imitations: the pieces are crafted from silk yarns, glass fibres and shearling rather than, say, fox fur. This approach lends the looks volume and tactility while demonstrating an intelligent and thoughtful engagement with materials.
Another focal point is the updated tailoring of the jackets. The shoulder line is softer and more rounded, while the waist is clearly defined. The silhouette builds a confident vertical line without excessive rigidity: structure is balanced by the fluidity of the fabrics. Nearly every look was complemented by knitted beanies or fringed caps worn snugly on the head – a detail that adds intimacy and a subtle touch of irony to the collection.
Shirts and their styling also receive particular attention. They are worn with studied nonchalance: unbuttoned, layered, allowed to peek out from beneath strict coats and jackets. In these nuances, one finds the very «hidden sensuality» the designer speaks of.
Among the signature details are dense tights with a slightly relaxed fit. The knitted styles, marked by deliberate «imperfection», are already shaping one of the key trends of the season and are set to remain relevant at least through the end of 2026.
For the second season in a row, Louise Trotter confidently closes the penultimate day of Milan Fashion Week. Without unnecessary grandiosity, yet with a precise understanding of the house’s DNA, she constructs the collection as a refined dialogue of opposites – masculine and feminine, rigid and soft, minimalism and considered overdressing. Within this balance, a new chapter of Bottega Veneta emerges: restrained in form, yet emotionally resonant in substance.
Photo: Instagram @newbottega
