Children with musical instruments and iconic motifs: Maison Margiela’s latest collection on the runway
During Paris Fashion Week
At Paris Fashion Week, Maison Margiela unveiled its new Spring-Summer collection, in which Glenn Martens revisited the house’s legacy, reimagining the aesthetic of deconstruction with a fresh, contemporary voice.
The show opened with models wearing metallic mouthpieces – a symbolic nod to the four signature stitched logos, once emblematic of the brand’s anonymity. The collection was dominated by aged leather ensembles: wide trousers, jackets with reversed linings, and long trench coats.
Textures and technique took center stage: Martens experimented with denim, patchwork, and sheer fabrics – translucent retro jumpsuits, silk mini dresses with lace, Victorian blouses with ruffles, and chiffon maxi skirts.
Models’ bodies were wrapped in tape to «attach» lace tops and oversized bracelets – one of these tops transformed into a striking dress by the finale.
The runway also featured waxed kimonos with silk scarf runners and vinyl coats, accented by vibrant silk accessories.
Floral motifs appeared in embroidery and jackets with cracked-paint effects, as if the garments were alive in their own right. The looks were completed with plastic-strap clogs, boots crafted from rubber rods, and men’s loafers with open toes.
The soundtrack was an improvised performance by children playing instruments without rules – a nod to the legendary Spring-Summer 1990 show, when toddlers ran among the models. This playful cacophony became a metaphor for Martens himself: like a young musician, he continues to interpret Margiela’s score – unevenly, but with feeling and a fearless spirit of experimentation.
Photo: Vogue Runway
